Two years ago Ron Beech, Rodger Williamson and I planned a trip together to go to Scotland and follow The NC500 coast road.
Covid put a stop to the tour twice and on 23 April we were going…….NOT!
Nicola Sturgeon put a stop to that.
Finally Scotland was unlocked and Ron Rodger and I left for the NC500 on 29 August 2021.
I should say here that The NC500 has only been an official route for about 7yrs and although the roads have always existed, they were never put together to make them an official route. I am not putting road numbers in because the whole of the route is signposted.
Also over the last few months the route has had more than its fair share of criticism due to motor homes and back packers who both appear to leave rubbish Willy nilly and one Motorhome user was caught emptying his toilet on the grass verge!
Whilst there are lot of visitors along the route motorcyclists do not in general get bad press because we pay into the economy with meals and hotels etc. We never met anyone unfriendly on the whole route.
Our first stop was a 290 mile ride from Leicester to the Buccleugh Arms Hotel at Moffat (DG109ET) A very popular bikers hotel (look it up…..The owner and his family run the hotel with every convenience for bikers including lock up garages and washing facilities for bikes etc). On the way here we were joined by Stefan.
A one night stay here, and then a 253 mile ride to our next hotel the Premier inn East Inverness.
Inverness is the start and finish of the NC500 and Ron who planned the whole trip had done some research and decided the best way round was anti-clockwise. The views are better!
So on the morning of Tuesday 31st of August we started The NC500.
Our first day was a 182 miles to Tongue staying at the Ben Loyal hotel (IV274XE). The roads to Tongue are stunning with views to die for and loads of twistys for the adventurer. En route we arrived at John o’ Groats at 1300hrs in glorious sunshine for the traditional picture and a quick snack. Then onto Bettyhill in Thurso riding through glorious mountain views in all directions and superb (mainly) roads.
We try to stop for refreshments etc ever hour but rarely more than a hour and half.
Arriving at Ben Loyal at 1700hrs for a well deserved rest! The views from this hotel were unbelievable! overlooking the Kyle of Tongue.
Fully refreshed we started out at 0900 on 1 September towards our next stay, a 130 mile journey to The Arch Inn at Ullapool (IV262UR).
The road, mainly the A838, follows the north coast to Durness and then south to Laxford bridge on the west coast along some of the most stunning scenery that God ever made, and not possible to describe by meagre words alone.
If you know Rocket Ron Beech or have had the privilege of going on a trip with him on a “Ron Route” you will understand what happened next………………..
We temporarily left the NC500 and took a detour on a very challenging and difficult winding gravelly “in places” road to a place called Tarbet, overlooking Handa island. This road is definitely not for the faint hearted with sheer drops and bends mixed in with gravel and poor tarmac, but it took us to a beautiful cafe overlooking the ferry (dinghy) to Handa island where twitchers frequent and I believe Puffins breed. The island is not inhabited.
Back to the NC500 then following the west coast, south to Ullapool and our hotel The Arch Inn overlooking the harbour and surrounded by mountains/hills. We arrived at about 1700hrs and had a relaxing meal and a few beers.
0900 2 September fully refreshed we said goodbye to Stefan and continued to our next hotel in Lochcarron a 153 mile journey.
The hotel we stayed at here is not recommended and therefore I will not name it.
Again travelling south on the west coast with unbelievable views for the whole day we stopped off at Loch Ewe to take in the site of a WW2 site at Rubha nan Sasan where the area was used as a base for the artic convoys. These ships provided essential supplies to war torn Russia along a route described by Churchill as “the worst journey in the world”.
Respects paid and then back on our journey along the now A832 past loch Maree following the west coast south to Applecross.
We arrived at Applecross around 1500hrs along challenging roads to the village centre where we stopped off for refreshments before tackling the famous Applecross Pass. Even the locals called it foolish to go that way back and told us about the many lives lost each year on the pass. Ron and I had done the pass both ways earlier but Rodger had never done it and was not helped by the comments.
Never the less the pass was taken and conquered by us all. The pass is full of tight switchbacks and sheer drops and is only a single track road with passing places so poor they make your heart ship a beat or two. Look it up on utube!
There are warnings on both sides about crossing it.
Many years ago it was known as the pass of the cattle where farmers drove their heads/flocks over the mountain.
From Applecross it was a short journey to our hotel in Lockcarron and a well deserved rest.
From Lochcarron to Inverness is 63 miles cross country to complete the NC500 but we continued the next day to a rally organised by Bob Crawley at the Rob Roy hotel in Aberfoyle a journey of 193 miles just north of Glasgow.
We left Lochcarron at 0900 on 3 September and headed to the Isle of Skye. (Another Ron Route) Once on the Isle of Skye over the bridge we travelled south to the Skye-Glenelg ferry the 7mile route to the ferry from the main A87 is not to be sniffed at. The route is again full of blind summits and bends and is challenging no matter what the mode of transport. BUT………. It leads to one of the last turntable ferries in the country with a very short journey across a fast flowing inlet.
An experience not to be missed! Once on the other side it was a trip along more beautiful scenery to the A87 across Glenshiel and views of the “5 sisters” mountain range. We followed the A87 to the A82 past Fort William and into the beautiful area of Glencoe.
If you did nothing more than travel the A82 at Glencoe through the mountains you would still be fulfilled, it is one of the most beautiful scenic spots of Scotland.
We arrived at the Rob Roy hotel for a well deserved 3 day stay and chill at the “end of season” rally.
1000hrs 4 September, Ron and I had a shot excursion from the hotel following the River Orchy in nearby Damally
1000hrs 5 September, Ron and I took a trip to Loch Katrine Stronachlaher and watched some lunatics swimming in the Loch with no wet suits brrrrrrrrrrr!
Following the lock to its end at Inversnaid.
On 6 September at 1000 we all left Abberfoyle to go to Falkirk and see the Kelpies and then onto our final hotel a Premier Inn at Newton Aycliffe near Durham some 220 miles south.
On 7 September at 0930 we left the final hotel and from Newton Aycliffe we said goodbye to Rodger. Ron and I made our way home through Yorkshire stopping for a snack at the Tan Hill Inn riding Buttertubs pass and on to Hambleton, Ripon and then home.
I have toured most of the UK and can honestly say that this is one of the most memorable tours I can think of.
Cliff Smith, 5 Region, Leicestershire Branch.
